Can An Oil Filter Be Changed Without Draining Oil
- #5
Fram seems to get a lot of poor press. If you await at a new Fram filter and compare it to any of a number of other filters, y'all volition likely run across a existent departure in how information technology appears with cardboard structure etc.
Fram's cardboard endcaps in canister filters don't actually apply to this state of affairs, since we are talking nigh cartridge filters here.
Of course no one says the Mann cartridge filters that uses some sort of resin-impregnated newspaper as the endcaps, including the ALH application, versus the interwebz preferred metallic endcap material.
- #half dozen
Yes, BUT...Don't WORRY, be happy !! It is really a rebranded "Isle of man", which is ane vendor that does oem for VW. As such, those oems accommodate to xxx,000 miles OCI'southward.
Now the ones I saw (@WalMart & local Kragen'south) were actually MORE expensive than what you can get any oem ones (MANN, Hengst, Bosch, etc)and from the VW dealers!!??
Conceptually it is as easy every bit (msg #7 sez); unscrew the cap/summit, raise the at present dripping old filter, (I put a plastic container under it, one of two expressly for communicable used oil, whatever mess is independent within the ...container) and drop in the new filter (acme on the Upward side) and rethread the cap/top back on.
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- #7
You can alter the filter without changing the oil. You'll need an oil filter cap [wrench], which yous can go at Autozone. I would await a few minutes (perhaps similar x) so that whatsoever oil would take a gamble to drain out; simply not too long, as then the oil will starting time to thicken. It will be *messy*. You lot should be able to pull the filter straight up out of the housing and then concord it there to permit the oil drain back into the filter housing. Have a thick cardboard box within reach then that you can take hold of it and put it under the filter. A thin box (like the one the new filter will come up in) will leak quickly, use something much thicker. Don't move the filter to the box, or you will drip oil all over the identify; instead, motion the box under the filter. Be sure to bank check your oil level when finished and top it off.
In all honesty, if you're concerned about it, I would simply change the oil.
Promise that helps!
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- #9
lol... Cheers honeydew! I did mean wrench and edited my post to include information technology.
I constitute I could non use the strap style wrench b/c the lip on the oil filter cap was but too small. The cap wrench is seriously about $v at AZ. Very worth the price for the massive head ache you salvage (IMHO).
- #12
I thought I read here that the oil filter wrench from AZ does a poor job due to improper grip. Cheque out the real one from Metalnerd.
Information technology works fine for me. I've never had an upshot with information technology. Practice you have linkage to Metalnerds product? I'm e'er happy to help out someone on a forum making a custom part rather then getting the one from Bigbox.
Edit: Found it. Looks similar the same i I have. http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm
n1das
TDIClub Enthusiast, Veteran Fellow member
- #13
Conceptually information technology is equally easy every bit (msg #7 sez); unscrew the cap/top, raise the now dripping old filter, (I put a plastic container under it, 1 of 2 expressly for catching used oil, whatever mess is contained inside the ...container) and drop in the new filter (top on the UP side) and rethread the cap/tiptop back on.
IMPORTANT!: Be certain to fill the housing up with oil before reinstalling the cap/top. This serves to wet the new filter and forbid oil starvation at startup. The oil filter should have a dam within that prevents the filter from emptying completely after shutdown to keep oil in in that location for the next first. Since y'all're installing a fresh filter that's DRY and empty, yous need to prime number it with oil earlier putting the cap back on.
I say "should" most the oil dam because early on version filters didn't have an oil dam in at that place. These early filters didn't take a peak and bottom orientation. Buyer beware, some aftermarket brands may nevertheless exist using the onetime blueprint. Purchase simply the latest OEM filter to exist certain you've got the correct filter.
Old & BAD filter: DO NOT Utilise!!!! (1999.5 - 2001 timeframe?)
You lot will experience severe oil starvation at startup with this filter.
NEW filter pattern with oil dam inside:
This filter has OBEN/TOP on information technology and is the correct filter to apply. When I bought oil filters back in 2002, I checked them while still at the dealer'south parts counter to make sure I got the correct filter. The just reason I mention this about the oil dams is some aftermarket brands might still be using the old design....more reason to stick to OEM filters.
Original "Damn the Oil Dams!" thread:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=32782
Adept luck.
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- #15
@77k20 - I felt the same way when I first got my Protrude. Information technology'due south not so bad. In fact, now that I've done information technology a agglomeration of times, I actually like the paper filters improve. Easier to change, non nearly as messy and totally less waste then those big ole metal filters.
@n1das - I did not know that. Thanks for the info! I'll keep it in mind moving forward.
- #sixteen
Thanks for all the replies. I have worked a lot on gassers- but the TDI is a bit out of my realm of comfort. I have never seen a cartridge filter before.
I'm merely going to get out information technology in for around 5,000 and then alter it. It is still a shock at how black that oil is right after an oil change. Gotta change the manner I think about a few things.
You can actually apply the filter for up to xxx,000 miles !!!!! My last OCI was actually @ 30,700 miles. Irresolute oil and filter @ 5,000 miles is a severe waste material of time, money, resources, and indeed makes more wear metals, i.e., More Ambitious wearable patterns. I would use a minimum of the VW recommendation which is @ ten,000 miles OCI. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=296388
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- #23
Unfortunately Pete thought UOAs were accurate down to the ppm when he made that post.
The principle of longer intervals not e'er existence bad is right, the analysis is wholly wrong. A correct analysis would be wear rates remained the aforementioned. Margin of error PLUS real earth impact negates whatsoever minor variation.
3.3 ppm Fe/ 10K and 2.95 ppm Fe / 10K are so close to the same it does not matter, fifty-fifty if it was accurate and non merely margin of mistake. Admittedly no real globe, functional deviation. Aforementioned goes for the rest of the clothing metals.
He (I will let him speak for himself) and I more than directly really put UOA's in context. You and I have discussed this in other threads, so I will not reprint. I think your analysis that the analysis washed is wholly wrong is ...wrong. Now while a v,000 miles UOA was NOT washed, yous seem to indicate that it would be fifty-fifty more benign, which would go against the results indicated in both the 10,000 miles OCI and 22,000 miles OCI's. So for example if any UOA from 1,000 miles to xxx,000 miles are statistically shown to be fine, why would anyone want to do shorter intervals, UNLESS they were experiencing statistically ODD problems? In other threads, (concerning this subject) y'all have steadfastly refused to deal with this and other bug. Indeed you refuse to address the elementary upshot posed by drivbiwire
..."Y'all see everything I saw, makes you wonder why everyone would perform an early oil change!"...
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- #24
I have for quite a while replaced the OEM filter every other oil alter. Paticles in the filter stay in the filter. They are quite capable of running far more than 20K (ii 10K oil changes). People make way too big of a deal out of oil filters. Have you ever seen a healthy TDI running skillful speced oil clog upward, or even start to make full up, an oil filter? I don't think so. Leaves a bunch of dirty oil backside to contaminate the new oil? NO. The oil you should be running is capable of going double, or more, the 10K interval (as many do, UOA or non) so why would a half pint or then ruin the almost four qts of new oil? Worry less.
Its not near beingness too cheap to spring for the actress $eight for a new filter every 10K, that'southward a non-issue. Its just a why waste material it if its all the same got a lot of use left in it? Plus there is less disposal hassle. European spec cars (different oil perhaps) run 30K+, on the same filter. If you lot have recently done major work on an engine, or had problems, then more frequent oil/filter changes may be a not bad maintainance practice.
You have to practice what y'all are comfortable with on your vehicle. Your results tin and will vary. This schedule works for me, possibly non others.
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- #25
I have for quite a while replaced the OEM filter every other oil change. Paticles in the filter stay in the filter. They are quite capable of running far more than 20K (2 10K oil changes). People make way too big of a bargain out of oil filters. Accept y'all ever seen a good for you TDI running expert speced oil clog up, or even start to fill up up, an oil filter? I don't recall and then. Leaves a agglomeration of dirty oil behind to contaminate the new oil? NO. The oil you should be running is capable of going double, or more than, the 10K interval (as many exercise, UOA or not) so why would a one-half pint or so ruin the near 4 qts of new oil? Worry less.
Its not about beingness too cheap to leap for the extra $8 for a new filter every 10K, that's a non-result. Its but a why waste matter it if its still got a lot of use left in information technology? Plus there is less disposal hassle. European spec cars (different oil perhaps) run 30K+, on the same filter. If yous take recently washed major work on an engine, or had issues, then more frequent oil/filter changes may exist a great maintainance practice.
You have to do what you are comfortable with on your vehicle. Your results can and volition vary. This schedule works for me, perhaps not others.
I would agree. The "frighters" really endeavour to bully with the "likewise cheap" taunt. To me information technology is all almost hooking upwards with the realities !!?? The realities more often than not (unless others that read this are indeed experiencing odd statistical anomalies) are equally You say !! Information technology is not rocket science !!! Its....lubrication.
I mean really no "frighter" has sent me a prepaid UOA bottle/s for me to send off a UOA to a lab of their choice; for either snapshots or tendency assay on my 03 TDI with 25,000 miles to 30,700 miles OCI's !!?? Why? I call back they are actually afraid what I am actually doing is... just fine !!!???
So in the concluding analysis it is not what I remember or how well or not I fence the points, information technology is really a testament on how "maintenance" costless the VW TDI actually IS and/or can be. and ... how rugged it actually is. I mean if one tin can do a very (from most ) aggressive one,000 miles OCI to (lesser aggressive) 30,000 miles OCI and the thing volition normally concluding far longer than most folks statistically keep nigh cars (even TDI'southward) life is good !!??
This is non to say that VW has the lock on what I said. I actually run a 04 Honda Borough with 114,000 miles on 20,000 miles OCI's. Filters actually run the gambit, ie. all-time sales from the EXPENSIVE FRAM 2.75 per to WalMart everyday price on Champion Labs filters @ 2.12 per. I practice run Mobil One 0w20 and 5w20.
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- #27
He (I will let him speak for himself) and I more directly actually put UOA's in context. You lot and I take discussed this in other threads, so I will non reprint. I call up your assay that the analysis done is wholly wrong is ...wrong. At present while a 5,000 miles UOA was NOT done, you seem to signal that it would be even more benign, which would go confronting the results indicated in both the 10,000 miles OCI and 22,000 miles OCI's. So for case if any UOA from one,000 miles to 30,000 miles are statistically shown to be fine, why would anyone want to exercise shorter intervals, UNLESS they were experiencing statistically ODD problems? In other threads, (concerning this discipline) you accept steadfastly refused to bargain with this and other bug. Indeed you turn down to address the elementary issue posed by drivbiwire
..."You come across everything I saw, makes y'all wonder why everyone would perform an early oil alter!"...
I can only directly both parties [yourself and Pete] involved to BITOG to ask actual SMEs nigh how accurate UOAs are and how they should be used. I've done this.
Any issues I refuse to address could be because they're not germane to the word at manus.
Margin of error and repeatability are in loftier school and college Chemical science.
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- #29
I can merely direct both parties [yourself and Pete] involved to BITOG to inquire actual SMEs about how authentic UOAs are and how they should be used. I've washed this.
Any issues I decline to address could be considering they're not germane to the discussion at hand.
Margin of mistake and repeatability are in high school and college Chemistry.
So what you are saying is that UOA's of curt OCI'due south have no/less/more margin of mistake and repeatability? You are as well ignoring the basic purpose of UOA'southward Tendency lines. Are you really making a instance for you having to repeat HS and college chemistry?
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